"Easy" Socks

It's time for me to publicly fess up to my biggest failure knitting project. The wonderful thing about a  "big fail" is that it's behind you! The best thing about a failed knitting project is that you will never make that mistake again. Life is always a chance to learn, isn't it? I put my project down for a month and when I picked it up again I totally forgot how to "ssk."  So I didn't decrease like I should have on the toe.  The result? An elfen sock! 

If you dare to try it - here's the pattern.  You can't do any worse than I did! This pattern is for a women’s average sized sock (unlike the picture you see!). You will determine the length of the sock by trying it on as you’re knitting.  


Yarn: worsted weight, about 200 yards total 
Gauge: 6 sts/inch

Tools you’ll need:
Needles: size 5 double points
Tapestry needle
5 stitch markers, one in a contrasting color

Abbreviations:
k: knit 
ssk: slip, slip, knit
p: purl 
sm: slip marker
p2tog: purl 2 together 
st(s): stitch(es)
pm: place marker 
wyib: with yarn in back
sl: slip 
wyif: with yarn in front


The Cuff
CO 40 sts.

Now, you will begin working in the round.
*k1, p1. Repeat from * until you’ve completed the round (40)

Work in a k1, p1 rib until your sock cuff is 2” long.

Heel Flap
For the heel flap, you will only work the 20 sts that are on the first needle.
(RS): knit all 20 sts.
(WS): purl all 20 sts.
Repeat these last two rows until you have worked a total of 20 rows.


Turning the Heel
Row 1 (RS): k12, ssk, k1

Row 2 (WS): sl 1 (wyif), p5, p2tog, p1
Row 3: sl 1 (wyib), k6, ssk, k1
Row 4: sl 1 (wyif), p7, p2tog, p1
Row 5: sl 1 (wyib), k8, ssk, k1
Row 6: sl 1 (wyif), p9, p2tog, p1
Row 7: sl 1 (wyib), k10, ssk
Row 8: sl 1 (wyif), p10, p2tog

Row 9: knit across (12 sts remain)

The Gusset
PU 20 sts. This is basically every stitch that you’ll see on the side of the heel flap. Place a stitch marker after the 19th stitch.

Now you’re at the next needle. Knit all of these stitches.
Knit all of the stitches on the next needle, as well. You will pick up stitches ON THIS
NEEDLE. Along the side of the heel flap, pick up 20 stitches, placing a stitch marker after the 1st stitch.
When you’re done, you’ll have 72 sts, and you’ll be right before the heel stitches. Until you get to your toe, this point will be the end of the round. You can place a locking stitch marker on your sock heel if you need a reminder (although, to be honest, you don’t really need to keep track of rounds… just as long as you count how many stitches are left)

Now it’s time to start your decreases:
Decrease round: k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog. sm, k to next marker, sm, ssk. Knit to end of round.
Repeat the decrease round until there are 40 sts remaining.
Don’t remove your stitch markers, you’ll come back to them later.

The Foot
Continue working in stockinette stitch (knit all the way around) until the sock (when tried on) comes to the bottom of your big toe.


The Toe
Knit around the sock, over to the first stitch marker after you’ve knit across the bottom of the foot. Slip this marker and knit the next stitch. Here, place your end of round marker.
Setup round: k1, pm, k18. pm, k2, sm, k18, sm. k1. Now you’re at the end of the round, with all of your stitch markers in place. You’ll start working your decreases now.
Round 1: k1, * sm, k2tog. k to 2 sts before next marker, ssk. knit to next marker. Repeat from *. knit to end of round.
Round 2: knit every stitch.
Continue working rounds 1 & 2 until 12 stitches remain.
Remove your markers, and cast off with Kitchener’s Stitch, and weave in your ends!

You did it! You made a sock! Congrats! Now, all you need to do is make that second one…